68 miles today, first on busy highway (with nice bike path/shoulder) along the coast crossing over various waterways, then on the Blackwater bike trail headed north away from the coast, then rolling country roads, and finally back to busy highway riding with shoulders. Except for the very high humidity (it was like a sauna when we started out this morning) and the traffic it was a very pleasant ride, but there really isn't that much to say about it because it is so much like home. When we were out West there were always new things to see, but generally that is not the case here.
The big find today was an area of Whitetop Pitcher plants in swampy area along the bike trail. These plants, which are 1-2 ft high, are gorgeous! The top part is white with bright red veins and the stalk red then fading to green. The flower is a bright red bell about 2 inches across--beautiful! We also passed a watery area of swamp covered with hundreds of water lilies. We're still enjoying the fragrance of honeysuckle and another shrub with racemes of white flowers which I can't identify. And have I mentioned that the Southern Magnolia is starting to bloom?
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Dauphin Island, AL to Pensacola, FL
We made it to our final state and only 9 more days to go!
Yesterday was a rest day on Dauphin Island, but I didn't do much resting. I started early in the morning with a hike thru the Audobon Society bird sanctuary. I'm not a good birder--by the time I locate the bird and get the binoculars focused on the spot the bird has moved to another spot. But it was fun just listening to all the bird calls. At one point I thought I heard a rufus-sided towhee, but when I stopped to listen I realized that I was actually hearing a mockingbird. I think I heard the songs of all the birds in the area during the few minutes that I listened to the mockingbird--a virtuoso performance. I also saw 2 green herons flying back and forth at the lake in the sanctuary and lots of brown thrashers plus other birds I couldn't identify.
Then it was on to Fort Gaines, which is one of the two major forts protecting the entrance to Mobile Bay during the Civil War. I had lots of fun climbing around on the fort and reading the accounts written by those who were defending the fort and the Union soldiers who captured it. There was also extensive material on the naval battle of Mobile Bay and Admiral Farragut who may or may not have said "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead."
On the way back to the condo, I stopped at the Indian Oyster Shell Mound Park. These mounds of oyster shells reflect repeated Indian encampments from 1100 AD to the early 1800s. Nice hike thru stands of old oaks and lots of wildflowers.
After lunch, further exploration of the island, and a brief rest, I took a 2 1/2 hour walk along the beach and watched the sun set over the water. All the foam from the surf reflected the colors of the rainbow. I don't know if that has to do with the oil spill or not. I've never seen it before. I also learned that what I thought were oil rigs on the horizon are actually natural gas rigs. Whatever they are they certainly ruin the view looking out to sea.
Today we took the ferry across Mobile Bay. I left the group on the other side to visit Fort , the other major fort protecting access to Mobile Bay. This fort was not in as good repair nor as well explained. And it was much larger than Ft. Gaines because the government expanded it greatly in the 1890s before abandoning it in 1923.
To catch up with the group after the fort visit, I sagged for about 20 miles with the van so I only rode about 41 miles today instead of 60. Most of our route was along the coast with lots of views of the Gulf and the white sands of the shore. After arriving in Pensacola, I spent a few hours touring the historic part of the city and visiting art galleries. Pensacola was settled in the mid 1500s which makes it one of the oldest cities in the US.
Yesterday was a rest day on Dauphin Island, but I didn't do much resting. I started early in the morning with a hike thru the Audobon Society bird sanctuary. I'm not a good birder--by the time I locate the bird and get the binoculars focused on the spot the bird has moved to another spot. But it was fun just listening to all the bird calls. At one point I thought I heard a rufus-sided towhee, but when I stopped to listen I realized that I was actually hearing a mockingbird. I think I heard the songs of all the birds in the area during the few minutes that I listened to the mockingbird--a virtuoso performance. I also saw 2 green herons flying back and forth at the lake in the sanctuary and lots of brown thrashers plus other birds I couldn't identify.
Then it was on to Fort Gaines, which is one of the two major forts protecting the entrance to Mobile Bay during the Civil War. I had lots of fun climbing around on the fort and reading the accounts written by those who were defending the fort and the Union soldiers who captured it. There was also extensive material on the naval battle of Mobile Bay and Admiral Farragut who may or may not have said "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead."
On the way back to the condo, I stopped at the Indian Oyster Shell Mound Park. These mounds of oyster shells reflect repeated Indian encampments from 1100 AD to the early 1800s. Nice hike thru stands of old oaks and lots of wildflowers.
After lunch, further exploration of the island, and a brief rest, I took a 2 1/2 hour walk along the beach and watched the sun set over the water. All the foam from the surf reflected the colors of the rainbow. I don't know if that has to do with the oil spill or not. I've never seen it before. I also learned that what I thought were oil rigs on the horizon are actually natural gas rigs. Whatever they are they certainly ruin the view looking out to sea.
Today we took the ferry across Mobile Bay. I left the group on the other side to visit Fort , the other major fort protecting access to Mobile Bay. This fort was not in as good repair nor as well explained. And it was much larger than Ft. Gaines because the government expanded it greatly in the 1890s before abandoning it in 1923.
To catch up with the group after the fort visit, I sagged for about 20 miles with the van so I only rode about 41 miles today instead of 60. Most of our route was along the coast with lots of views of the Gulf and the white sands of the shore. After arriving in Pensacola, I spent a few hours touring the historic part of the city and visiting art galleries. Pensacola was settled in the mid 1500s which makes it one of the oldest cities in the US.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Pascagoula, MS - Dauphin Island AL.
We are one state closer to the end. We have a rest day tomorrow here on dauphin Island which is a barrier island outside Mobile Bay. We're staying in a condo complex with direct access to the beach and 2 swimming pools. On the horizon are a number of oil rigs and tonigght they are lit up like Christmas trees. I counted 8 of them, some close some farther away.
Today's ride was a short 41.3 mi. We had a headwind or crosswind for the first 25-0 miles, then a tailwind. I liked that part better. I did spot an alligator along the bank of a creek? bayou? shortly before leaving Mississippi. I stopped at the spot where the ranger at the wildlife refuge (where I stopped yesterday) told me I could a number of pitcher plants but i couldnIt see any. Much of the area was fenced off and inaccessible.
The last part of the ride was near the coast with lots of salt water marshes and a number of sea birds including egrets, a great blue heron, brown pelicans, and white pelicans. Finally. to get to the island we rode across a 3.5 mi bridge which was mostly low level but one very high section which provided great views of the island and out over the water. However, there were aa lot of broken beer bottles on the shoulder and I'm really surprised that I didn't get a flat tire.
Wehad a bit of a party tonight to celebrate the birthday of our guide, Carol.
Today's ride was a short 41.3 mi. We had a headwind or crosswind for the first 25-0 miles, then a tailwind. I liked that part better. I did spot an alligator along the bank of a creek? bayou? shortly before leaving Mississippi. I stopped at the spot where the ranger at the wildlife refuge (where I stopped yesterday) told me I could a number of pitcher plants but i couldnIt see any. Much of the area was fenced off and inaccessible.
The last part of the ride was near the coast with lots of salt water marshes and a number of sea birds including egrets, a great blue heron, brown pelicans, and white pelicans. Finally. to get to the island we rode across a 3.5 mi bridge which was mostly low level but one very high section which provided great views of the island and out over the water. However, there were aa lot of broken beer bottles on the shoulder and I'm really surprised that I didn't get a flat tire.
Wehad a bit of a party tonight to celebrate the birthday of our guide, Carol.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Wiggins to Pascagoula, MS
Great ride today--cooler, less humid, good roads, and pleasant countryside (71 mi). Early in the ride we had a rather bizarre incident--one of the riders had the bolt holding her seat in place snap in two, her seat fell apart, and she went down. I never heard of such a thing happening.
We rode a long stretch thru the DeSoto National Forest, which was largely pine forest. Coreopsis, crimson clover, and purple verbena again, and occasionally the yellow and the blue irises which grow along water. In one case, someone had planted water lilies inthe ditch next to their drive. In the afternoon, I stopped at the Mississippi Sandhill Crane National Wildlife Preserve, but didn't get to see any of the approximately 120 cranes. It is nesting season and they are pretty much out of sight. These cranes do not migrate, and the ones living hete are the only ones living in the wild anywhere in the world.
One of the great things about biking is the sensory perceptions as you ride, which you don't get driving along in an air-conditioned car--the sound of birds calling back and forth, of cows mooing, and dogs barking; and the fragrances of honeysuckle and other flowers, of pine trees and the smell of fresh cut pine when the logging trucks go by, of water and damp earth, of horses and, of course, less pleasant smells--exhaust, dead animals, skunks, etc.
We rode a long stretch thru the DeSoto National Forest, which was largely pine forest. Coreopsis, crimson clover, and purple verbena again, and occasionally the yellow and the blue irises which grow along water. In one case, someone had planted water lilies inthe ditch next to their drive. In the afternoon, I stopped at the Mississippi Sandhill Crane National Wildlife Preserve, but didn't get to see any of the approximately 120 cranes. It is nesting season and they are pretty much out of sight. These cranes do not migrate, and the ones living hete are the only ones living in the wild anywhere in the world.
One of the great things about biking is the sensory perceptions as you ride, which you don't get driving along in an air-conditioned car--the sound of birds calling back and forth, of cows mooing, and dogs barking; and the fragrances of honeysuckle and other flowers, of pine trees and the smell of fresh cut pine when the logging trucks go by, of water and damp earth, of horses and, of course, less pleasant smells--exhaust, dead animals, skunks, etc.
Friday, April 15, 2011
Hammond - Bogalusa, LA - Wiggins, MS
The ride from Hammond to Bogalusa (55.2 mi) was mostly over quiet roads with rolling landscape with pine woods, cattle farms, and occasional towns and houses. Weather was good with only light winds. We continue to see lots of honeysuckle, purple verbena, and crimson clover to which were added some form of mint with a light blue flower and a black-eyed susan with foliage somewhat different from that in the DC area but the flowers look the same.
Today's ride started out fine and we quickly crossed the state line into Mississippi. We were all anxious to move quickly because the forcast was for strong winds, thunderstorms, and possibly hail in the afternoon. We were not far into Mississippi when we encountered the first road closed signs, but when we checked it out we were able to get thru by walking our bikes a short distance thru the construction area. But we hadn't much more than cleared that problem, when we encountered another "road closed" sign. This time we couldn't get thru and had to wait about 1/2 hour until our guide could find a suitable detour. By the time we had completed the detour (which really didn't take us out of our way), the wind had kicked up considerably and I decided to sag rather than fight the wind. Only did 27 of the 60 miles. In terms of terrain, etc. I can't see any difference from Louisiana.
Everyone made it to the hotel without more than a few drops of rain.
Today's ride started out fine and we quickly crossed the state line into Mississippi. We were all anxious to move quickly because the forcast was for strong winds, thunderstorms, and possibly hail in the afternoon. We were not far into Mississippi when we encountered the first road closed signs, but when we checked it out we were able to get thru by walking our bikes a short distance thru the construction area. But we hadn't much more than cleared that problem, when we encountered another "road closed" sign. This time we couldn't get thru and had to wait about 1/2 hour until our guide could find a suitable detour. By the time we had completed the detour (which really didn't take us out of our way), the wind had kicked up considerably and I decided to sag rather than fight the wind. Only did 27 of the 60 miles. In terms of terrain, etc. I can't see any difference from Louisiana.
Everyone made it to the hotel without more than a few drops of rain.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
St. Francisville to Hammond, LA
What a day! First, let me say that it was a beautiful, warm, sunny day, the roads were mostly good, and the scenery pleasant. But...it was supposed to be an 87 mi day until we encountered a detour which made it a 95 mile day. Then I was cruising along with my head on another planet and missed a turn, adding 4 more miles. As I neared the end, I saw a Sonic drivein where I could get a milkshake, and with my attention thus diverted I missed a turn and added another mile to the total. So, I rode a century (100 miles) today, the 2nd time on this trip, and I did get the milkshake.
Just a note about the Sonic chain: it is a drivein fast food place like they used to have when I was a teenager. There is no inside seating, but there is outdoor seating with a place to order, which works very well for us cyclists. I thought driveins had disappeared completely, but not here in Louisiana and eastern Texas.
While it was a pleasant ride today, there wasn't anything particularly notable about the area we were passing thru--it could have been anywhere in the eastern US south of New England. For the first time on this trip, I did not take any photos, which gives you some idea.
Just a note about the Sonic chain: it is a drivein fast food place like they used to have when I was a teenager. There is no inside seating, but there is outdoor seating with a place to order, which works very well for us cyclists. I thought driveins had disappeared completely, but not here in Louisiana and eastern Texas.
While it was a pleasant ride today, there wasn't anything particularly notable about the area we were passing thru--it could have been anywhere in the eastern US south of New England. For the first time on this trip, I did not take any photos, which gives you some idea.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Lake Charles - Lafayette - St. Francisville
Yesterday we crossed the Mississippi River by ferry. We are now in the eastern US, which is good because we only have 16 more days to make our way to St. Augustine.
These are long riding days--88.5 mi. into Lafayette (I took a couple side trips.) and 86 mi. to St. Francisville. Today is a rest day to be followed tomorrow by an 88 mi. day. The good news is that it is quite flat in Louisiana, although less so here on the eastern side of the Mississippi River. The bad news is that on the ride to Lafayette we were dealing with a 20 mph wind--mostly a crosswind, and only occasionally a headwind or tailwind, and who knows what tomorrow will bring. The other good news is that with 70% of the ride behind us, we still have not been rained on. It rained last evening, but not until well after all of us had reached the Butler-Greenwood Plantation where we are staying, in the outbuildings--the old kitchen, cook's cottage, gazebo, dove cote, treehouse, etc. This plantation has been in the same family since 1796. Unfortunately, it is way out of town, with no WiFi, no place to eat, and a long way to walk to get to anything.
So, this morning I rode my bike into town to visit the Rosedown Plantation which has 28 acres of gardens. The house with its two-story columns and porches was impressive, just what one imagines of a southern plantation. The rose garden has lots of heirloom varieties which have such wonderful fragrance. And the live oak trees, which are nearly 200 years old, are just magnificent. What I really wanted to see were the azaleas in bloom (hundreds of them, most well over my head), but I'm too late. They've already been here and gone, hastened no doubt by the record setting heat wave in this part of the country. In Lafayette the temperature was 89 degrees the day we rode in, and the record for that day is 89 degrees.
On the ride to Lafayette, we passed thru Crowley, which claims to be the rice capital of the world, and we did see a number of rice paddies around there as well as a number of crawfish farms, which I suspect were once rice paddies. Lots of water and lots of water birds. I was riding along a deep ditch when a great white heron flew up and flew alongside me for awhile--that was great! Road kill has changed--we now see lots of armadillos, skunks, and possums as well as snakes, frogs, and other little things that live around water. I'm still waiting to see a live armadillo.
Honeysuckle is everywhere--we ride to the fragrance. Also hundreds of spider lilies along yesterday's ride. As we headed towards the ferry, we rode along the levee for miles, and I was surprised to see that they graze cattle on the levee, and bail hay, and who knows what else. The last few days have reminded me how much earlier things mature here than back home in DC. Mulberries are ripe, strawbery festivals are happening, roses and Southern Magnolia are in bloom, corn is already 12-15 inches high in the fields.
I'm writing this on the computer in the St. Francisville public library and am about to take a walking tour of the historic part of town. St. Francisville was once the capital of the West Florida Republic, a short-lived declaration of independence from Spain which led to the US taking over this area.
These are long riding days--88.5 mi. into Lafayette (I took a couple side trips.) and 86 mi. to St. Francisville. Today is a rest day to be followed tomorrow by an 88 mi. day. The good news is that it is quite flat in Louisiana, although less so here on the eastern side of the Mississippi River. The bad news is that on the ride to Lafayette we were dealing with a 20 mph wind--mostly a crosswind, and only occasionally a headwind or tailwind, and who knows what tomorrow will bring. The other good news is that with 70% of the ride behind us, we still have not been rained on. It rained last evening, but not until well after all of us had reached the Butler-Greenwood Plantation where we are staying, in the outbuildings--the old kitchen, cook's cottage, gazebo, dove cote, treehouse, etc. This plantation has been in the same family since 1796. Unfortunately, it is way out of town, with no WiFi, no place to eat, and a long way to walk to get to anything.
So, this morning I rode my bike into town to visit the Rosedown Plantation which has 28 acres of gardens. The house with its two-story columns and porches was impressive, just what one imagines of a southern plantation. The rose garden has lots of heirloom varieties which have such wonderful fragrance. And the live oak trees, which are nearly 200 years old, are just magnificent. What I really wanted to see were the azaleas in bloom (hundreds of them, most well over my head), but I'm too late. They've already been here and gone, hastened no doubt by the record setting heat wave in this part of the country. In Lafayette the temperature was 89 degrees the day we rode in, and the record for that day is 89 degrees.
On the ride to Lafayette, we passed thru Crowley, which claims to be the rice capital of the world, and we did see a number of rice paddies around there as well as a number of crawfish farms, which I suspect were once rice paddies. Lots of water and lots of water birds. I was riding along a deep ditch when a great white heron flew up and flew alongside me for awhile--that was great! Road kill has changed--we now see lots of armadillos, skunks, and possums as well as snakes, frogs, and other little things that live around water. I'm still waiting to see a live armadillo.
Honeysuckle is everywhere--we ride to the fragrance. Also hundreds of spider lilies along yesterday's ride. As we headed towards the ferry, we rode along the levee for miles, and I was surprised to see that they graze cattle on the levee, and bail hay, and who knows what else. The last few days have reminded me how much earlier things mature here than back home in DC. Mulberries are ripe, strawbery festivals are happening, roses and Southern Magnolia are in bloom, corn is already 12-15 inches high in the fields.
I'm writing this on the computer in the St. Francisville public library and am about to take a walking tour of the historic part of town. St. Francisville was once the capital of the West Florida Republic, a short-lived declaration of independence from Spain which led to the US taking over this area.
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