Yesterday we crossed the Mississippi River by ferry. We are now in the eastern US, which is good because we only have 16 more days to make our way to St. Augustine.
These are long riding days--88.5 mi. into Lafayette (I took a couple side trips.) and 86 mi. to St. Francisville. Today is a rest day to be followed tomorrow by an 88 mi. day. The good news is that it is quite flat in Louisiana, although less so here on the eastern side of the Mississippi River. The bad news is that on the ride to Lafayette we were dealing with a 20 mph wind--mostly a crosswind, and only occasionally a headwind or tailwind, and who knows what tomorrow will bring. The other good news is that with 70% of the ride behind us, we still have not been rained on. It rained last evening, but not until well after all of us had reached the Butler-Greenwood Plantation where we are staying, in the outbuildings--the old kitchen, cook's cottage, gazebo, dove cote, treehouse, etc. This plantation has been in the same family since 1796. Unfortunately, it is way out of town, with no WiFi, no place to eat, and a long way to walk to get to anything.
So, this morning I rode my bike into town to visit the Rosedown Plantation which has 28 acres of gardens. The house with its two-story columns and porches was impressive, just what one imagines of a southern plantation. The rose garden has lots of heirloom varieties which have such wonderful fragrance. And the live oak trees, which are nearly 200 years old, are just magnificent. What I really wanted to see were the azaleas in bloom (hundreds of them, most well over my head), but I'm too late. They've already been here and gone, hastened no doubt by the record setting heat wave in this part of the country. In Lafayette the temperature was 89 degrees the day we rode in, and the record for that day is 89 degrees.
On the ride to Lafayette, we passed thru Crowley, which claims to be the rice capital of the world, and we did see a number of rice paddies around there as well as a number of crawfish farms, which I suspect were once rice paddies. Lots of water and lots of water birds. I was riding along a deep ditch when a great white heron flew up and flew alongside me for awhile--that was great! Road kill has changed--we now see lots of armadillos, skunks, and possums as well as snakes, frogs, and other little things that live around water. I'm still waiting to see a live armadillo.
Honeysuckle is everywhere--we ride to the fragrance. Also hundreds of spider lilies along yesterday's ride. As we headed towards the ferry, we rode along the levee for miles, and I was surprised to see that they graze cattle on the levee, and bail hay, and who knows what else. The last few days have reminded me how much earlier things mature here than back home in DC. Mulberries are ripe, strawbery festivals are happening, roses and Southern Magnolia are in bloom, corn is already 12-15 inches high in the fields.
I'm writing this on the computer in the St. Francisville public library and am about to take a walking tour of the historic part of town. St. Francisville was once the capital of the West Florida Republic, a short-lived declaration of independence from Spain which led to the US taking over this area.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Saturday, April 9, 2011
Cleveland - Silsbee, TX - Lake Charles, LA
The big news is that we finally are out of Texas! Twenty days was about 15 too many.
For the last 2 days there has been nothing particularly notable in the landscape or the locations. It was mostly pine woods in Texas and lots of logging trucks, but getting wetter as we approached Louisiana. No longer a burn ban--I think that may be a first for our entire time in Texas. Once we crossed into Louisiana, there were lots of bridges and more farmland, fewer trees. Both days there was a headwind or crosswind most of the day, more today than yesterday. Yesterday was a 63.5 mile day and today was supposed to be a 76 mile day, but with the heat and humidity and a persistent head wind I called it a day at 62 miles. I think if this combination of heat, humidity, and headwind continue, I may get in the sag wagon everyday by 1 pm--it's just too hot for me in the middle of the afternoon.
Wildflowers have been fewer, but a new one which has made infrequent appearances over the last two days is the spider lily, which I have never before seen growing wild. There have been perhaps 100-150 of them along the way compared with the thousands of crimson clover (the clover I described in the previous post) and the millions of pink primroses, but they are quite a delight to see. Also notable is a pinkish thistle with a flower head 1 1/2 to 2 inches across, which the butterflies really love especially the swallowtails, both yellow ones and black ones. Yesterday just when my spirits were really flagging, a great blue heron carrying a few sticks, presumably for its nest, flew across the road right in front of me. It gave me a lift that kept me going for quite a few miles.
For the last 2 days there has been nothing particularly notable in the landscape or the locations. It was mostly pine woods in Texas and lots of logging trucks, but getting wetter as we approached Louisiana. No longer a burn ban--I think that may be a first for our entire time in Texas. Once we crossed into Louisiana, there were lots of bridges and more farmland, fewer trees. Both days there was a headwind or crosswind most of the day, more today than yesterday. Yesterday was a 63.5 mile day and today was supposed to be a 76 mile day, but with the heat and humidity and a persistent head wind I called it a day at 62 miles. I think if this combination of heat, humidity, and headwind continue, I may get in the sag wagon everyday by 1 pm--it's just too hot for me in the middle of the afternoon.
Wildflowers have been fewer, but a new one which has made infrequent appearances over the last two days is the spider lily, which I have never before seen growing wild. There have been perhaps 100-150 of them along the way compared with the thousands of crimson clover (the clover I described in the previous post) and the millions of pink primroses, but they are quite a delight to see. Also notable is a pinkish thistle with a flower head 1 1/2 to 2 inches across, which the butterflies really love especially the swallowtails, both yellow ones and black ones. Yesterday just when my spirits were really flagging, a great blue heron carrying a few sticks, presumably for its nest, flew across the road right in front of me. It gave me a lift that kept me going for quite a few miles.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Navasota to Cleveland (Texas, that is)
Another good ride--75 miles today much of it thru wooded areas. We had about 15-20 miles thru Sam Houston National Forest, a lovely ride, but there were also many other miles of wooded areas, mostly pines but oaks and other varieties as well. We had gentle rolling hills in the morning, but by afternoon the landscape had largely flattened out. I didn't mind the change--my thighs are a bit tired of hills and there was a headwind the last 20 miles. We passed a large lake while in the National Forest, and I saw egrets and great blue herons for the first time since we left San Diego.
My ride was brightened by the wildflowers along the roads. The dominant flower today was a bright yellow coreopsis--miles and miles of them. New today was a red clover that is unlike what I know as red clover back east, which is actually rather purplish. This clover has a cylindrical flower head and is definitely red. I have no idea what it is called. There was also a deep reddish purple vetch as well as all the other flowers I've written about over the last week. If they have this many wildflowers when it has been so dry, I can't imagine what it would be like if they had had rain.
Yesterday was a rest day in Navasota. A group of us walked into town for lunch, then I continued exploring on my own. Lots of antique shops, but not much else. One of the town's claims to fame is being the Blues capital of Texas. They have a Blues jam every Friday night, unfortunately, I was there on Wednesday. There were a number of big Victorian era houses in town--the money came from lumbering and growing cotton. The town is, it seemed to me, less prosperous now, although several of those houses have been turned into inns or B&Bs, so maybe the money now is in tourists.
I also visited the studio of a local artist whose work I really liked--very simple lines and vivid colors making a powerful impression. Didn't buy one, but I do have his card and his web address.
My ride was brightened by the wildflowers along the roads. The dominant flower today was a bright yellow coreopsis--miles and miles of them. New today was a red clover that is unlike what I know as red clover back east, which is actually rather purplish. This clover has a cylindrical flower head and is definitely red. I have no idea what it is called. There was also a deep reddish purple vetch as well as all the other flowers I've written about over the last week. If they have this many wildflowers when it has been so dry, I can't imagine what it would be like if they had had rain.
Yesterday was a rest day in Navasota. A group of us walked into town for lunch, then I continued exploring on my own. Lots of antique shops, but not much else. One of the town's claims to fame is being the Blues capital of Texas. They have a Blues jam every Friday night, unfortunately, I was there on Wednesday. There were a number of big Victorian era houses in town--the money came from lumbering and growing cotton. The town is, it seemed to me, less prosperous now, although several of those houses have been turned into inns or B&Bs, so maybe the money now is in tourists.
I also visited the studio of a local artist whose work I really liked--very simple lines and vivid colors making a powerful impression. Didn't buy one, but I do have his card and his web address.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
La Grange to Navasota
Today was just a delightful, delightful ride! There were gentle rolling hills, good road surface, blue skies, beautiful scenery--farmland and pasture, cattle grazing, beautiful oak trees (live oaks, I think), wildflowers-- and cool weather. What more can one ask.
The front that came thru yesterday changed the weather tremenduously. Yesterday morning when we left it was around 77 degrees, and I wore my shorts, a sleeveless bike jersey, and sandals with no socks. This morning it was almost 40 degrees colder and I wore my shorts, a short-sleeved jersey, a jacket, leg warmers, full gloves, and shoes with socks and was still cold until the sun was high enough to warm us. But once it warmed, it was a perfect day for riding.
Today was bluebonnet day--they were everywhere, along the roadside and whole fields of them in many places. In addition to all the other flowers we've been seeing, today there were in a few white poppies with yellow centers. I got some great photos but have not found any way to get them from my camera to the computer.
It was such a lovely day that I was in no hurry to get to the motel, so I stopped to explore along the way. One stop was at the original site of Baylor University founded in 1845 as a coed institution, later separated into a men's college and a women's college. The same site also had several historic houses on display tho not open for viewing.
Then I stopped in Independence, one of the original settlements in the area, for lunch and a chat with the owner of the General Store, who looks forward every year to the bikers coming thru and had many stories to tell.
Finally, I stopped at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Park, which is dedicated to the history of the independence of Texas from Mexico and the 10 years of the Republic of Texas. The convention of delegates that drew up the Texas Declaration of Independence and declared the republic met in the town of Independence, which they refer to as the Philadelphia of Texas.
Then it was 10 more miles to Navasota, another strawberry milkshake, a shower, and dinner. A special treat tonight because we were celebrating the 50th birthday of one member of the tour.
The front that came thru yesterday changed the weather tremenduously. Yesterday morning when we left it was around 77 degrees, and I wore my shorts, a sleeveless bike jersey, and sandals with no socks. This morning it was almost 40 degrees colder and I wore my shorts, a short-sleeved jersey, a jacket, leg warmers, full gloves, and shoes with socks and was still cold until the sun was high enough to warm us. But once it warmed, it was a perfect day for riding.
Today was bluebonnet day--they were everywhere, along the roadside and whole fields of them in many places. In addition to all the other flowers we've been seeing, today there were in a few white poppies with yellow centers. I got some great photos but have not found any way to get them from my camera to the computer.
It was such a lovely day that I was in no hurry to get to the motel, so I stopped to explore along the way. One stop was at the original site of Baylor University founded in 1845 as a coed institution, later separated into a men's college and a women's college. The same site also had several historic houses on display tho not open for viewing.
Then I stopped in Independence, one of the original settlements in the area, for lunch and a chat with the owner of the General Store, who looks forward every year to the bikers coming thru and had many stories to tell.
Finally, I stopped at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Park, which is dedicated to the history of the independence of Texas from Mexico and the 10 years of the Republic of Texas. The convention of delegates that drew up the Texas Declaration of Independence and declared the republic met in the town of Independence, which they refer to as the Philadelphia of Texas.
Then it was 10 more miles to Navasota, another strawberry milkshake, a shower, and dinner. A special treat tonight because we were celebrating the 50th birthday of one member of the tour.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Bastrop to La Grange
Only 41 miles today, but what a day! We started witth a ride thru Bastrop and Buescher State Parks with lots of ups and downs, some quite steep (17% - I walked). It was largely pine forest with the wonderful fragrance of pine. About 2/3s of the way thru the parks a big storm blew thru, which was part of a front moving thru the area. The temperature dropped 10-15 degrees almost instantaneously and the wind was howling thru the treetops. One of the members of the groupwho was already out in the open took refuge in a big trash can that had been overturned by the wind.
When the rest of us got out of the park we had a 2+ mi ride in a crosswind that was blowing about 25 mph across open fields and gusting. There were a couple times when I thought I was going to be blown over. Then we turned a corner and it became a tailwind. Terrific! From there it was an easy ride with only occasional cross and headwinds as the road turned one way or another.
I think we are truly in the South now as I saw Spanish moss today for the first time on this trip. Also saw more oil wells today--spotted the first ones yesterdayy, which I forgot to mention in my blog. Again lots of flowers along the roadside. More bluebonnets than we've seen before. But the most beautiful were the winecups, which are a rich magenta with a white center. Unfortunately, I still have not found any way to add photos to this blog.
When the rest of us got out of the park we had a 2+ mi ride in a crosswind that was blowing about 25 mph across open fields and gusting. There were a couple times when I thought I was going to be blown over. Then we turned a corner and it became a tailwind. Terrific! From there it was an easy ride with only occasional cross and headwinds as the road turned one way or another.
I think we are truly in the South now as I saw Spanish moss today for the first time on this trip. Also saw more oil wells today--spotted the first ones yesterdayy, which I forgot to mention in my blog. Again lots of flowers along the roadside. More bluebonnets than we've seen before. But the most beautiful were the winecups, which are a rich magenta with a white center. Unfortunately, I still have not found any way to add photos to this blog.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Blanco to Bastrop
The word for today is windy--15-20 mph, mostly crosswind and headwind until we left Lockhart.The ride out of Blanco was again ups and downs for the first 25 miles or so, then it leveled off considerably with open farm fields. That's when I began to struggle with the wind. I finally gave in at Lockhart about 62 miles into the ride because I was struggling to go even 8mph and I figured at that rate I would not get into Bastrop until after dinner. Of course, shortly thereafter the route turned and what had been a headwind/crosswind became a tailwind/crosswind, so at the next sag stop I got back on my bike and pedaled the last 13 miles into town for a total of 72.5 miles for the day.
Wind aside, it was a lovely ride--good road surface, cloudy til mid afternoon, rolling hills and ranches and farms, and wildflowers almost continuously along the way. I rode by myself almost the entire way because I got a late start and then stopped to take photos. Many of the roads we have been riding on are designated as "ranch" roads and "farm" roads, but I haven't been able to figure out the difference since there seem to be farms along the ranch roads and ranches along the farm roads.
In yesterday's post I neglected to mention the purple verbena and the pink primrose which have brightened the roadside for the last 4-5 days. Today I added some new sightings--blue-eyed grass, wild mustard, blanketflower, and some unidentified.
Tomorrow's a shorter ride but they are promising more wind and a 50% chance of rain--further proof that we have left the arid regions behind.
Wind aside, it was a lovely ride--good road surface, cloudy til mid afternoon, rolling hills and ranches and farms, and wildflowers almost continuously along the way. I rode by myself almost the entire way because I got a late start and then stopped to take photos. Many of the roads we have been riding on are designated as "ranch" roads and "farm" roads, but I haven't been able to figure out the difference since there seem to be farms along the ranch roads and ranches along the farm roads.
In yesterday's post I neglected to mention the purple verbena and the pink primrose which have brightened the roadside for the last 4-5 days. Today I added some new sightings--blue-eyed grass, wild mustard, blanketflower, and some unidentified.
Tomorrow's a shorter ride but they are promising more wind and a 50% chance of rain--further proof that we have left the arid regions behind.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Kerrville to Blanco
Today was 64.8 miles of up and down--some ups pretty steep, but in most cases the momentum from the downs carried me most of the way up the next. We had about 10 miles of really bad road, but the rest was not too bad, some was almost smooth, especially the last 9 miles into town. Really lifted my spirits, which had been flagging badly.
We were also fortunate that today was cloudy until late afternoon. Although it is very dry and there is a burn ban thruout the Hill Country, it is much more humid here than earlier and the sweat does not evaporate as easily. With temperature in the high *0s full sun would have been quite uuncomfortaable.
There were more flowers along the roadside than on any previous day. As we paralleled I-10 there were bluebonnets and Indian paintbrush. Elsewhere there were lots of white and yellow daisies, rain lilies (which are pink when in bud and white with pink tinge when open--quite delicate and lovely), pinks, and many others which I couldn't identify.
On the way into Blanco I stopped at the Dairy Queen for a strawberry milkshake--really refreshing on a hot day and oh so yummy! It should read temps in the high 80s, but I can't get this to let me go bake and make the change.
We were also fortunate that today was cloudy until late afternoon. Although it is very dry and there is a burn ban thruout the Hill Country, it is much more humid here than earlier and the sweat does not evaporate as easily. With temperature in the high *0s full sun would have been quite uuncomfortaable.
There were more flowers along the roadside than on any previous day. As we paralleled I-10 there were bluebonnets and Indian paintbrush. Elsewhere there were lots of white and yellow daisies, rain lilies (which are pink when in bud and white with pink tinge when open--quite delicate and lovely), pinks, and many others which I couldn't identify.
On the way into Blanco I stopped at the Dairy Queen for a strawberry milkshake--really refreshing on a hot day and oh so yummy! It should read temps in the high 80s, but I can't get this to let me go bake and make the change.
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